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We've been to many LEGOfests, meetings and shows. The one thing guaranteed to get people scratching their heads and tut-tutting is the prospect of trying to build a large train layout that a) isn't on the floor and b) is usable and safe. Usually, the end result is to use a hotch-potch of tables which are either at different heights, or have a lip round the edge. And there usually aren't enough.
We are advocating a standard baseboard module which anyone can build in isolation. People will be able to bring their own modules with them to meetings, and we will be able to bolt them together in a variety of configurations. In just the same way as you can arrange a number of 2x4 bricks.
This may look familiar, as
it is similar to the standard used by some of the US LTCs. Our modules are
slightly smaller, to cater for our smaller cars, architecture, etc. Their
portability is admirably demonstrated here by Jon Reynolds, as he slots one of
his baseboard modules into the back of a Ferrari:
But it's mostly driven by the track geometry, which is the same for everybody.
The standard we are using defines the module envelope and the interfaces, but the rest is up to you!
Here it is:
(if you've been here before, and just need to look something up, try the resources page)
Baseboard Dimensions
These diagrams illustrate the dimensions. The second one doesn't look very helpful on the screen, unfortunately. If you can save it & then print it, it should make more sense:
Paint
We recommend that modules are painted grey to match the colour of grey baseplates. Dulux 'Hebridean Mists 3' is quite a good match. A second, but less favoured, colour is green - again, to match the colour of baseplates.
As for the sort of paint to use: don't go for the easy option of the one coat paints. Experience has shown that they aren't very tough. They scratch easily and leave deposits in places they shouldn't, like your shiny new car.
So stick with the good old primer/undercoat/top coat system. It takes longer, but the result is miles better.
Legs
We currently
have two styles of leg in use. The first is a simple 'post in hole' method
where each leg fits
into a box in each corner of the module. Each leg is then a simple length of
2x2 timber (or 3x3 if you're into over-engineering and have a strong back
:-)
The second
method is a bit more complicated, but more versatile. Each leg has two
triangular plates attached at right angles, with a 10mm hole drilled in each
plate. The holes line up with the holes used to attach the modules to each
other, so no extra holes or fixing points are required on the modules
Using legs like this does mean
that you need slightly longer bolts, though.
While technically we should use
a third fixing point to make the legs completely rigid, we've found that just
two bolts works perfectly adequately, as the leg can't really move much in any
direction.
Another point to note is that apart from on the first one, only
two legs are required per module. Once the first one is assembled, legs can be
attached at the 'free' end of the next module. The end with no legs is bolted
to the first, and is thus supported by it
The other point of
interest in this picture is the foot on each leg. These are nylon doorstops
which are screwed in place, and are thus height adjustable. Just in case your
measuring isn't quite up to scratch :-)
We haven't gone in for any
sophisticated levelling mechanisms, as the ends of the boards must be aligned
if you use the above mentioned assembly method, and we really don't care if the
whole thing is absolutely level.
Accessories
B&Q have
done very nicely out of us during the construction process. Nearly all the
timber and hardware has come from there for the construction most of our
modules. The foot on each leg, as already mentioned, is a nylon doorstop
(not a rubber one - too squishy).
The bolts we use are 8mm dia.
roofing bolts, lengths 50mm & 75mm - the 75mm ones are needed when bolting
two modules and a leg together.
Other Standards
Notes
Having built
modules with plywood tops and with MDF tops, we recommend 5mm MDF. This is
reasonably light, and doesn't splinter (ouch!).
When glued to the frame,
it's quite rigid, and can support the weight of an adult (although I didn't
actually stand on it).
Given that
most large boards come in 8'x4' sheets, you're all probably cursing us, asking
'why is the module size slightly too large to be able to saw up an 8x4 sheet to
make four modules?'
The answer, of course, is that the dimensions are set by
the track geometry. We have developed a cutting plan which enables us to get
three modules out of one 8'x4' sheet. Each module top is made out of two
pieces. The cutting plan can be found
here.
We expect
that modules will be covered with baseplates. Optionally, ballast can be
simulated with a further layer of plates, 10 studs wide, under the
track.
Experience has shown that actually fixing the baseplates to the
module top is a bad idea, as lining the modules up to LEGO tolerances is too
big a challenge.
Special cases involving changes in geometry, such as inclines, or bridges, will be dealt with as they arise, and will probably just be coordinated between the people involved.
If you would like to have a go, please get in touch with us first, so we can give you the latest info.
Disclaimer:The
North British LEGO® Train Club has no connection
with The LEGO® Company.
The NBLTC is a private
club which is not endorsed by, or affiliated to The LEGO® Company in any way.
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